A million-dollar mortgage is the same formula as a $250k one. The difference is psychological: people stop checking the total interest because the payment alone is already loud.
I still run the amortization. Every time. Rate shopping without looking at lifetime interest is how you “save” $80 a month and give away five figures over thirty years.
Payment is not the whole story
Monthly principal-and-interest is just the tip. Insurance, taxes, HOA, and PMI (if any) ride on top. For a rough PI number at a given rate and term, use the $1M mortgage calculator. Then add escrow the old-fashioned way—your insurer’s quote, not a national average from a blog.
Rate vs term tradeoffs that actually show up
- 30-year fixed — lower payment, more interest. Fine if cash flow is tight and you might move before year 10.
- 15-year — painful payment, brutal interest savings. Only if the budget still has room for life.
- Points — buying rate down only works if you keep the loan long enough to break even. Spreadsheet it; don’t trust the “everyone buys points here” line.
A boring but useful habit
Print two amortization schedules: the offered loan, and a rate 0.25% better. Look at year 5 and year 10 balances, not just month one. If the “better” loan needs points that don’t pay back before you expect to refinance or sell, it’s not better for you.
Also: round-number loans ($1,000,000 exactly) are rare after down payment and closing costs. Model the real principal you’ll sign—$972,400 or whatever it is—not the listing price.
Use the $1M mortgage calculator while the numbers are still in front of you.
Launch $1M mortgage calculator →